Tech Q and A

I have a 1995 Dakota with a 3.9L V-6 and 5-speed manual transmission. I would like to change over to an automatic and make the V-6 rumble. If it would be more cost effective, I can get a 1999 4.7L with automatic from another Dakota. Which engine does Mopar® offer more performance parts for? Would the 4.7L be more practical than the 3.9L to get a noticeable horsepower gain? Do you recommend any aftermarket cams, blowers, headers or pipes?

MM: We recommend a 360 cid (5.9L) Magnum® swap, for a few reasons. The electronics for the 4.7L are designed for later model vehicles—meaning you would have to swap ALL the vehicle electronics in order to get it to work in your ‘95. With the 360, you can make upwards of 400 horsepower. And, the electronics and components are available. Mopar Performance sells a kit—part no. *P5153590 (above)—that comes with a harness, intake, injectors, rails, distributor, wires, throttle body, 
fuel pump, computer and O2 sensors—the whole shootin’ match. Then you can buy a camshaft part no. *P4876348 (above right), which the kit is designed around. 
We also recommend checking out Doug Thorley Headers for more swap reference material at http://dougthorleyheaders.com. Your next step would be to buy a 360 Magnum engine, install the kit and cam, and you would have a 400 horsepower 360—fuel injected and ready to go.
*Not legal for sale on pollution-controlled vehicles or vehicles registered for highway use.

Regarding governor weight for a 727 transmission, I am running a 1954 Chrysler 331 HEMI® that is bored sixty thousandths over with Jahns 12.5 compression ratio pistons, Iskenderian cam, solid lifter and 2500 stall converter. What weight governor do I need to have a shift pattern in each gear at 5500 rpm? Is there one in production? Do I need to have one machined by a machine shop? If so, what should it weigh?

MM: We don’t carry much information on the early 331 engine. To contact early HEMI experts we recommend visiting hothemiheads.com, they should be able to answer any early HEMI question you have.

I’m looking for information on Chrysler camshaft part no. 1735981. I believe that it may be for an old 392.

MM: Our information shows this camshaft is for 1957 354 (Poly Spitfire) applications: 1957–58 Chrysler Windsor and Saratoga models (ID numbers: WE57, LE5, 58W, 58S).

I own a 1975 Dodge 1-ton truck with a 440 motor. The truck runs pretty good in my eyes; however, the exhaust manifolds get really hot—at night they glow orange. I’m not able to keep valve cover gaskets from burning up. The engine doesn’t overheat. Years ago, I owned a 1976 Dodge Ramcharger with a 440 and it did the same thing. What causes this condition and how can it be corrected?

MM: We recommend checking the ignition timing (just to make sure you’re not burning fuel in the manifolds). Other than that, are you using a cork style valve cover gasket? If so, we recommend installing orange high-temp silicone gaskets that 440 motor home applications require (part no. P4120101).

Regarding A4 aluminum race blocks, is the P5 cylinder head interchangeable with any others—not costing so much. Who might have leftover heads from Pro Stock?

MM: There are limited number of these blocks (P4876887AB) and heads (P4876883AB) available. For more information, call the Mopar Direct Connection Tech Line at 
1-888-528-HEMI.

I’m currently restoring my 1977 Dodge ½-ton pickup. I’m having trouble finding Web sites offering resto parts: like carpet, weather stripping, chrome trim and similar items. If you can help me out that would be great. Thank you.

MM: Unfortunately we don’t have a specific catalog or Web site that has restoration parts for your truck. A great information resource for any early Chrysler product is Moparts.com. There are many Mopar gurus on there that should be able to assist you in tracking down parts for your truck.

I have a ’91 Dodge W150 truck with a bad 318 V-8. I have a rebuilt 318 from a 1979 Dodge truck. Can I use this ’79 engine if I’m not going to 
use the smog pump?

MM: In order to do that swap, you’ll need to do away with the TBI system on your ‘91. You will have to convert over to carburetion for the ‘79 318—but the engine will drop right in.

I am the proud new owner of a 2010 Dodge Challenger SRT8® with a 6-speed and B5 Blue paint. I ordered a few accessories for my Challenger including a cold air intake, Challenger door sill guards, and a Go-Wing spoiler. My reason for writing you pertains to the spoiler. When I went to install the spoiler I noticed that the Go-Wing does not use the holes of the stock spoiler, leaving two holes in the trunk lid. So to install a Go-Wing I would have to have a body shop weld and paint my brand new car, not cool! Or buy a new trunk lid and have it painted. Is the Go-Wing meant to be an accessory for six-cylinder Challengers with no factory spoiler? If not, what are other people doing to solve this problem?

MM: Congratulations on the Challenger SRT8, we love that car here at Mopar. Regarding Go-Wing installation on Challenger SRT8 applications, our Mopar accessories department recommends to either have your deck lid patched and refinished, or purchase an SE (V-6) trim level deck lid and have it painted. The spoiler is available as part of an exterior package. When you order sales code ALB, you receive a unique hood with T/A style scoop, body color Go-Wing spoiler and strobe stripe graphics.