Tech Q and A
I have a ‘79 Li’l Red Express with about 100,000 miles and everything original. I’m tired of carburetors. What kind of grief would I be getting myself in to by trying to replace the engine/trans with a 5.7L HEMI®? I suspect a low-mileage engine/trans can be found in a salvage yard. What’s available from Mopar®?
MM: If you have a small block in your truck right now, you can get a 5.7 salvage yard engine and use Mopar kit P5153339AB which includes an intake, throttle body, engine controller and harness. The 5.7 will bolt up to a standard LA bellhousing. Then install flex plate, P5153753, to convert the HEMI crank to small block converter bolt pattern. For the fuel system you can use the Mopar Billet Fuel Rail package with built in regulator, P5153783, and the EFI fuel pump, P5153688. Contact Schumacher Creative Services for engine mounts at engine-swaps.com. Then all you need is power, ground and switched ignition, and you’re up and running.
Thanks for answering my question on the 1995 Dodge Dakota with 3.9L V-6 in the March/April 2010 issue of Mopar Magazine. I plan to put the 360 cid (5.9L) Magnum® engine in my truck—with Mopar Performance kit *P5153590. I wish to install an automatic transmission behind it. What transmission do you recommend and will I need a different rear end? And, when I order the kit will it be programmed for that transmission?
MM: The computer is programmed for a 1999 Dakota, which would have used a 46RE—O.E. Part No. 5003344AB. As far as the rear end goes, we usually recommend at least an 8 3/4". Gear ratio will depend on tire size, converter stall speed, and weight of the truck.
Please advise if either the 6.1L or the 426 Gen III aluminum blocks will be a near bolt-up in a 2005 Ram 1500 with 5.7L HEMI. If not, what additional parts, modifications, etc., are required?
MM: Physically, both the 6.1 and the 426 Gen III blocks will both bolt-up in your Ram. The engine mounts on all three blocks (5.7, 6.1, 426 Gen III) are in the same location. The issue arises when trying to get a larger displacement engine to actually run in your truck. Your engine controller is programmed for the 5.7, so if you change the displacement of the engine, the computer will have to be flashed to reflect that change. Check out www.bouchillonperformance.com—they’ve successfully done this swap.
I recently purchased a Mopar Performance Purple Shaft camshaft for my 440 racing engine. It has the following specs: 590 lift, 312 duration, 104 overlap and 108 centerline. What are the optimum—and maximum—valve spring pressures that I should be using (or can use) with a dual spring application?
MM: Mopar Performance recommends dual spring with damper,
I have a vibration in my 1972 Dodge Challenger with 440 (forged crank and harmonic balancer), automatic (converter with no weights), 3.55/8 ¾" differential and balanced driveshaft. It happened shortly after the engine and transmission were rebuilt. Any ideas on what’s causing this condition?
MM: Was your engine balanced when it was rebuilt? If so, how did your engine builder balance the engine (internal or external)? Depending on how the assembly was balanced will affect how the rest of your powertrain should be set-up. For technical assistance, call the Mopar Direct Connection Tech Line at 1-888-528-HEMI.
I’m looking to upgrade to a stiffer suspension in my 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T. What suspension packages/kits are available for this vehicle from Mopar?
MM: There are two suspension packages available from Mopar Performance. The first kit is lowering spring set, P5155436. This spring kit will give your Challenger a 1" drop and uses your stock struts/shocks. The second kit is a coil-over suspension package, P5155152. This kit allows you to adjust the ride height of the vehicle—where you want it—and also enhances the dampening of the struts/shocks.
I recently purchased a 1986 Chrysler Fifth Avenue. The car has slightly less than 37,000 miles on it. I am wondering if it is possible to replace the ECU on this car with one from the late ‘90s. I am concerned about the future availability of the ECU. A more modern ECU would allow me to use a scan tool to read the repair codes. Is this modification possible? If so, where can I get the instructions on how to perform this upgrade myself? Also, I live in southern California. Would I be violating any California smog rules if I was to succeed in upgrading my ECU? Thank you for your help.
MM: Unfortunately it’s not that easy of a swap. The PCM works off engine sensors and tone wheels, which your vehicle doesn’t have. As for SMOG, you would have to check with your local government about what is and isn’t legal in your state.
