Tech Q and A

I have a 2009 Dodge Challenger with a 5.7L. The engine oil monitor has indicated twice (after 2,500 miles) that an oil change is required. Is that normal? Should the vehicle go to 4 or 5 thousand before the monitor goes off?

MM: The Dodge Challenger Owner’s Manual states: The engine oil change indicator system is duty-cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate dependent upon your personal driving style. So in a nutshell, the engine controller uses different inputs to determine when the oil should be changed. If you feel your vehicle is operated in a manner that does not warrant a 2,500-mile maintenance interval, then we recommend the vehicle be inspected by your dealer.

I own a ‘96 Ram 1500 Magnum® V-8 with 4WD that I would like to install a ‘92 LA 360 V-8. What do I need to change to complete the engine swap?

MM: The LA engine will not be a direct swap. The LA 360 Throttle Body Injection (TBI) doesn’t have a crank sensor. So, if the casting has the spot for the crank sensor you could use the block. Furthermore, the LA also has different cam specs than the Magnum 360s, so the computer might crash and the engine may not run correctly. And, you can’t swap the cams either, due to the method of oiling through the cam bearings. Also, the Magnum intake will not bolt to the LA heads. And if that’s not enough for you, the motor can’t be swapped without changing all the electronics, and at that point (‘96) they were using a J-tech controller, so none of the gauges will work either.

I have an 8.25" Sure-grip rear from a Dodge Aspen R/T (F-body) and have a few questions. First off, I was hoping to swap this in to my ‘74 Dodge Dart which currently has a 7.25" rear. I have the weld in spring relocation kit installed so I’m aware that I would have to move the spring perches. Second, can the 8.25"—which currently has 2.41:1 gears in it—be swapped to run a 3.55:1 gear set? I’ve heard that this is not possible with only the 2.41 gear set in 8.25s?

MM: The axle swap will not be an issue. The F-body flange-to-flange distance is 54.34" and the A-body is 53.2". If the 8.25" has the 2.41:1 ratio, the differential will have to be changed out to accommodate the larger ring and pinion.

I own a 2009 Dodge Charger R/T (5.7L HEMI®) and want to add a few upgrades. I’m getting different feedback on what this would do to the warranty. I want to add a cold air intake, aftermarket functional hood scoop, Mopar shorty headers, a full Flowmaster Cat-Back™ exhaust system and 1-inch lowering spring kit. Can I do all this and still keep my warranty?

MM: You should check with your local Dodge dealer for warranty parameter information. It is ultimately up to the dealer and the Chrysler area representative (since they are the link to the Chrysler warranty system) regarding what will and will not affect the warranty on your vehicle.

I have 1971 Charger Super Bee with four drum brakes and 14"x 6" rallys. I plan to upgrade the front to disc brakes. What other Chrysler models (including their production years) may I find the spindles and other components that I would need for this swap? I know I can buy ready-to-go kits; but if I can save a few bucks I would rather go that route. I prefer not having to upgrade to 15" wheels at this time.

MM: Any 1971–1972 disc brake B-body or 1970–1974 disc brake E-body—everything from the spindle out will swap directly over. We recommend replacing the master cylinder with a new one.

I own a 1962 Chysler Newport with a 361 engine and a factory manual 3-speed transmission. Will a 413 engine from a 1964 Chrysler Imperial be compatible with my manual transmission? I would greatly appreciate any knowledge and information you can provide.

MM: Yes, the 3-speed will bolt right up. The only thing you need to watch out for is the pilot bushing. You might have to shorten the input shaft and/or replace the pilot bushing. We recommend Mopar Pilot Bearing, part no. P4876056AA (above), for your application.

I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.7L HEMI and I’m trying to correct a fast-idle condition. The following flash codes have been scanned: P2101, P2118, P2110, P1684 and C121C. Throttle body and ESP lights are illuminated on the dash. Can the ESP control the throttle body to eliminate the fast-idle condition? I’ve replaced the throttle body—no change in condition.

MM: We advise the vehicle be taken to your nearest Jeep dealer and have the condition diagnosed. Usually with electronics, if you’ve replace the suspected (bad) part and the condition still exists, it’s either going to be in the wiring or the module that controls it (in your case the PCM).

I just purchased a 1969 Plymouth Road Runner. The fender tag is gone and I cannot locate the build sheet. Can options be found through the VIN?

MM: Yes, just contact the Chrysler Museum www.wpchryslermuseum.org at archives@wpchryslermuseum.org and provide them with your VIN. They can assist you with the option breakdown.

I have an ‘08 Jeep Liberty. Can I put synthetic engine oil in it? Can I use SAE 5W-20 for summer and winter? Are there other Chrysler-approved viscosities for this engine?

MM: Synthetic engine oil may be used as long as the container has the American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol and the correct SAE viscosity grade on the label. Refer to the Owner’s Manual regarding acceptable engine oil viscosities for the 2008 Jeep Liberty.