Tech Q&A
The editors of Mopar Magazine answers reader's technical and general service questions.
I own a 1965 Dodge Dart. Basically the car runs great, but I have a bad vibration problem between about 15 and 25 mph. I’ve had the wheels balanced and checked the driveline thoroughly. I’ve also replaced the u-joints. I’m not sure what else to do. Help!
MM: This type of problem requires some serious diagnostic work that’s difficult to do via a magazine, but here goes our best shot: Check everything that rotates within the driveline. Begin with the most external components; not only are they the easiest to check, but the easiest to be damaged. Once wheel/tire/driveshaft balance is checked (you said you’ve checked it all out, but it can’t hurt to take a second look), move to more difficult areas, such as axle shafts, transmission input/output shafts, plus torque converter/flex plate/flywheel/clutch. All of these items can have a vibrational effect if they’re bent or if bolts are missing or loose.
I have a 1989 Shelby Dakota with a slung rod. I’m wanting to put a 408 stroker in it. What oil pan will work and do you have tips for the changeover?
MM: Oil pan choice would depend on which particular engine block your future stroker uses, but in all cases it has to be a rear sump pan. If you use a 318/340-based block, you can use your factory 318 pan (P5249062). If your engine is based on a pre-1992 360 engine block, you’ll have to use P5249060. If you’re basing your buildup on a Magnum engine block, you must acquire a factory Magnum truck pan regardless of whether you’re using a 5.2L or 5.9L Magnum block. The only major tip that comes to mind regarding the changeover would be in the area of engine mount differences between the 318 and 340/360 engines. See Mopar’s Street Truck Manual P5007522 for all the details.
I’ve been trying to do research on a 416 stroker 340 motor but have come up empty handed. I’m not worried about bearing clearance, I’m interested in the torque and horsepower rating of this motor. I’d also like information on a cam that would work well. Are there any Web sites available that will help out on the build?
MM: Our best advice is to purchase “How to Build Big Inch Mopar Small Blocks (P5153775), authored by Mopar’s intrepid race parts engineer Jim Szilagyi. In the book, several different combinations are outlined that will provide a few hints as to the power range the engine is capable of producing. As far as a Web site goes, the discussion boards on www.moparts.com should be a good resource.
We have a 318 cid Plymouth, 340 Dart and 360 Demon. If we take the bypass hose from the water pump to the intake and plug it off, would it help to cool the cars after running?
MM: Not a good idea. The purpose of the bypass is to allow some water around the thermostat before the engine is up to temperature for the thermostat to open. Blocking it could boil the water out of the block if the thermostat were to stick.
I have a 1968 Coronet Super Bee two-door coupe, which I bought new and have now restored. I’d like to know how many 1968 models were built.
MM: The 1968 Coronet Super Bee came with two engine options: the high-performance 383 and the venerable 426 HEMI®. During 1968, 7,177 Super Bees with the 383 engine were produced. Only 125 HEMI Coronets left the factory that year. In case you’re not aware, there’s a great Web site (www.musclecarclub.com), which has a lot of good information about vehicle production figures and more.
Are 440 blocks available through Mopar? All the used blocks I find in my area usually have already been bored. I would like to either find a standard bore used block or purchase a new one.
MM: Mopar offers two RB blocks: a cast iron street block (P5007671AB) and cast iron siamesed-bore block (P5007624AB).
I own a 1973 Dodge Dart. Recently I hooked up a new HEI distributor. Unfortunately all I get when I turn the engine over is backfiring. I have turned the distributor 180 degrees but nothing changes. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? Thanks from a lifetime Mopar fan.
MM: The most likely cause of your problem is an improper firing order. All Chrysler V8s use the same firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Just for reference, big block distributors rotate counterclockwise and small block distributors rotate clockwise. When installing a new distributor, first bring the number one piston up to top dead center (TDC). Verify both valves are closed to make sure it is at the end of the compression stroke (near the point where the plug should fire), then verify the rotor is pointing towards one of the terminals in the distributor cap. If not, rotate the distributor until the rotor lines up with one of the terminals. Mark that terminal with a felt tip marker and install the number one plug wire in that position. Continue installing the remaining plug wires in the proper firing order, observing the direction of distributor rotation and it should fire up. Finally, be sure to set the ignition timing.
I own a 1985 Ramcharger 4x4 with a 5.9L and automatic transmission. The engine is tired, so I purchased a low mileage engine to replace it. The engine is a 5.9L out of a 2000 Durango 4x4. The engine came complete with a starter, power steering pump, alternator, A/C compressor, flexplate, exhaust manifolds, computer and wiring harness. I have a few questions about swapping the engine. According to the Chrysler Service Manual, since it’s a 5.9L, the trans is a 727. Will the Magnum 5.9L bolt up to my original trans? The Magnum has an rpm sensor located at the rear of the engine. The bellhousing on the Ramcharger is not made for this sensor. Can the sensor be relocated? Will the original engine mounts work? What problems with the electrical system do you see? Do I need all the sensors for the Magnum, or can some or all of them be bypassed?
MM: Yes, your transmission will bolt up to the Magnum engine. As for the rpm sensor, your best bet is to modify the bellhousing to accept the sensor. If you get the sensor out of synch the engine may not run, or it may run very poorly. Your original engine mounts will bolt up to the Magnum, but remember they are more than 20 years old; you should replace them while everything is apart. As for any electrical problems, if you take your time with both service manuals you should be OK. For the engine to operate properly you should use all the sensors.
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Reply #1 on : Tue June 09, 2009, 21:34:20