Tech Q&A

The editors of Mopar Magazine answers reader's technical and general service questions.

I own a 1975 Dodge W100 with a 318 and automatic transmission. How involved would it be to install a 426 HEMI® crate motor?

MM: The term, “Anything can be done, but” seems to apply here. There’s definitely more to it than just your basic drop-in. Right off the bat, you’ll need a transmission, torque converter, radiator, shifter (or modify the current one), beefed-up suspension, driveshaft, exhaust system, motor mounts and transmission mounts. Also, the rear end may need to be upgraded. Plus, you’ll need to make a new throttle linkage. On some HEMI engine swaps, it’s also possible that the master cylinder may need to be relocated. In addition, you might need a new oil pan and matching pickup tube. As was mentioned earlier, anything is possible, but … This is far more than a weekend project, but then again, you’ll have a HEMI under the hood when you’re finished. Good luck.

I have a 1970 Dodge Dart that had the auto shifter on the steering column, but now has the shifter on the floor. I can’t find a steering column from a manual 1970 Dart. Would a column out of another car fit in my Dart? Does the column have to be out of a 1970 car?

MM: First off, steering columns don’t fall into the category of performance parts; however, we do have a possible solution for you. Most large salvage yards have an “interchangeability” book. They can probably look up other vehicles that are compatible with yours to serve as a donor vehicle. At least it’s worth a try.

I just recently began considering a Mopar 528 crate motor. I know it puts out more than 600 horsepower, but I’m just wondering if you can offer any other details.

MM: You bet. This brute of an engine (P5007630AD) puts out 610 horsepower to be exact. Bigger is truly better when it comes to high-performance engines. This King Kong motor also develops a whopping 650 lb-ft of torque. Features include a heavy-duty siamese bore cast iron block with cross-bolted mains, aluminum heads, stainless steel 2.25" intake and 1.94" exhaust valves, a 292° .524"/.543" lift hydraulic cam, forged 10.25:1 compression ratio pistons, aluminum dual plane M1 four-barrel intake manifold, forged steel crankshaft, and more. The engine also comes with Mopar Performance aluminum valve covers and a chrome front cover, as well as a precise high-performance electronic distributor. Mopar recommends that for maximum performance, an 850/900 cfm Holley carburetor and 2 1/4" headers be used. Needless to say this is a serious engine for serious race use.

I’m looking for some parts for some older Dodge vehicles I have. I need the gold-toned Dodge letters for the hood or trunk of my 1957 Dodge. I also need an emergency brake cable for my 1960 Dodge D100 truck. I know Mopar stocks a ton of parts for some of the classics, but they can’t have everything. Any idea where I might be able to locate these items?

MM:When you’re talking parts like these for late 1950s vehicles, you should probably start by digging into Hemmings Motor News. Both the Web site (www.hemmings.com) and monthly paper magazine are worth their weight in gold. Of course, you might also try local Mopar shows and swap meets; you never know what you might find. Also consider visiting www.chryslerclub.org, the official Web site of the Walter P. Chrysler Club. Click on the link to the Chrysler Products Restorers Club (located in Kalamazoo, Mich.). There you’ll find tech advice, forums and more to help all vehicle owners in your situation.

I’ve spoken to you folks at Direct Connection several times and know you specialize in older high-performance cars, but I’m wondering if you could answer some general questions regarding replacing the engine in my 1998 Dakota R/T? Here goes: Can I swap a HEMI into the truck? Will the factory four-speed transmission be able to handle the added horsepower and torque? If not, what trans should I use? Likewise with the factory rear end; can it take the power and torque? Finally from your point of view, are there any “deal-breakers” on a project like this?

MM: First the good news: A 5.7-liter HEMI will bolt up to the transmission, and the trans and rear end have enough torque capacity to handle the extra power. Now we’ll ease into the bad news: There are no conversion mounts available in the aftermarket, but you could have those fabricated. Now for the “deal-breaker.” The main problem is that your 1998 Dakota is 100 percent electronically controlled. The 5.7L’s NGC computer system is completely different than the JTEC used in the Dakota. In other words, the engine will fit, but the electronic end of things would not be easy to sort out. Normally in a situation like this, your best bet would be to do a buildup of the existing 5.9L Magnum for simplicity sake.

I have a 1974 Plymouth Barracuda that I bought in 1978. The problem I’m having is that the steering wheel has a lot of play in it, and I was told that there is a way to adjust for that. I’ve seen replacement steering boxes but they seem expensive. Any suggestions?

MM:The wheels are original. MM: A steering wheel with excessive play in it can be the result of any number of suspension pieces being worn. After almost 30 years, this is to be expected. On some steering boxes there is an adjustment bolt with a lock nut that should be clearly visible in the engine compartment. This can be used to reduce steering play to a certain extent, but should not be considered as a cure-all. Mopar Performance offers a manual steering gear worm and ball nut package (P4007612), if you are thinking of rebuilding a manual box (you didn’t specify if it’s manual or not). The package will improve the ratio to 20:1 compared with the factory ratio of 26:1. You should have a professional technician check the ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm and any other front suspension components for wear before you replace the steering box.